Saturday, Sept. 16 
Evening of onsens 
 After dark we went to one onsen after another. One had the women's bath upstairs from the men's, and there was much giggling whenever someone tried to peek over the shrubbery to see the men below. 
  Next was the mud bath, which was co-ed. It rained off and on; the bath had a thatched roof over most of it. The water was cloudy with mud. 
  Then we walked down the road toward the Yamaguchi Hotel and its beautiful, open-air co-ed onsen, Tarutama, with a big 
natural waterfall in a spotlight. 
Tarutama onsen (Yamaguchi Hotel brochure photo)
This one had sparkling clear water without the smell of sulphur. 
  As we were leaving around 10 p.m., we heard flute music getting closer and closer. It was a ramen truck! Noodles, anyone? 

  Here's a picture of the waterfall, taken the next morning from the road.