Sunday, Sept. 17 
Sayonara, typhoon 

  At last, the effects of the typhoon were gone. It was sunny, warm and dry. 

Sunday morning view from Jigoku Onsen
  After wake-up baths and a breakfast of many delicious breads and coffee in the cabin, we finished packing.  Neal, Kazuko and Ardinal -- packed like sardines in the Jeep -- drove to Oita for the ferry to Shikoku, covering in less than a day the route that Rick and I would savor all week. 
  Mount Aso is actually the name for a ring of five peaks surrounding the world's largest active-volcano caldera. We barrelled downhill from Jigoku Onsen and had a quiet, easy ride across the flat basin, following Route 325 beside the jagged peak called Nakodake to Route 265.
   The main roads weren't busy, but we found even quieter back roads paralleling Route 265, almost to Route 57, which we followed for only about a mile. We picked up Route 11, got lunch at a conbini and headed for the hills.